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If you find yourself thinking a lot about thin-skinned new potatoes and tender green vegetables lately, either you’re wearing a “Kiss Me, I’m Irish” T-shirt or it’s just springtime in the Northwest.
Between the last fortnight of winter and the first fortnight of spring is a magical microseason once called faoilleach in old Scottish Gaelic. In Japan, where 72 koyomi mark these infinitesimal changes (eat your heart out, Josh McFadden), this week is momo hajimete saku, or “first peach blossoms.” Right on cue, the first flush of my peach tree’s bright pink buds are just beginning to break.
When far-away hothouses give us tomatoes and raspberries at any time of year, observing small seasonal changes takes some effort — but if you’ve ever tasted a perfect stalk of sweet-crisp asparagus, you know that ephemerality is worth celebrating.
Colcannon is, at its root, a fairly straightforward dish of mashed potatoes with greens (often cabbage) and onions, fortified with lots of cream and butter. It’s standard fare for St. Patrick’s Day, but also a fine use for the garden’s first fat stalks of kale and turnip raab before they turn woody and bitter. Serves 4-6
Note: There are differing opinions on which potato to use — a floury russet is always a great choice for mashing, but I tend to prefer a waxy variety like Yukon gold because the skins are thin enough to leave on and I don’t mind a bit of extra texture in this dish. Waxy potatoes can turn gummy if you overwork them, so if you want really smooth, fluffy mashed potatoes with no lumps, go with peeled russets.
Ingredients
3 pounds potatoes, peeled or not, (see note) and cubed
8 tablespoons (½ cup or 1 stick) unsalted butter, preferably Irish, divided
1 cup sliced baby leeks, spring onions, scallions or a mix
Salt and pepper
6 cups chopped kale, green cabbage, collards or a mix
1 cup cream, half- and- half or whole milk, divided
Sliced scallions and/or chopped parsley to garnish
Instructions
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until fork tender, about 15-20 minutes (depending on how small you cut the cubes). Strain and set aside.
- Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks/green onions and a fat pinch of salt and pepper, and saute until fragrant, glossy and translucent, about 5 minutes.
- Add the kale/cabbage and stir to coat in the butter. Add half of the cream and a few more pinches of salt and pepper, reduce heat to medium low and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and silky, about 20-25 minutes.
- Add the remaining cream and 3 tablespoons of butter to the cooked potatoes. Mash until they’re as smooth (or lumpy!) as you like, then fold in the cooked greens. Taste and add more salt and pepper to your preference, then serve with the remaining tablespoon of butter on top. Sprinkle with sliced scallions and parsley.